The Hungry Vegan is an occasional column, shedding light on herbivorous offerings at mainstream Exeter restaurants. If there are any places you would like the Hungry Vegan to try, email subeditor @ electric-stitch.com.

February is a dark and chilly month – a time when hungry vegans prefer not to dine exclusively on potato and rice side dishes from conventional menus, but would rather feast on vegan-friendly delights without breaking the bank. I know the perfect spot.

The Light of India appears to be a run-of-the-mill Indian restaurant. The menu features many more meat dishes than veggie ones and vegan-friendliness is not advertised. Omnivores will be right at home. Meanwhile, the descriptions of meals as being ‘creamy’ or ‘buttery’ will be enough to convince any vegan to play it safe with a plate of boiled rice. Before doing so, however, it is worth asking the waiter if that creamy vegetarian dish you’ve been dreaming of could be made with oil instead of butter or cream. The answer will probably be an enthusiastic “yes”.

Indeed, the staff at Light of India are happy to oblige to make the vegan possibilities on the menu practically limitless. My personal favourites are vegetable rogan, vegetable korma and dahl but I have simply not lived in this town long enough to explore the extensive menu. This place obviously chooses to emphasize taste rather than heat, as nothing is too spicy but everything is cooked to perfection.

“That was the best Indian meal I’ve ever had,” I exclaimed after my first visit. “Actually,” I added, “that may be the best meal I’ve ever had”.

Vegan verdict: Extensive vegan options and outstanding service. Naan fans be prepared, however, the naan here is made with milk. My heartbreak over this limitation lasted only until I tried the chapatti.

49 Fore Street, Heavitree, 01392 278822

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Stephanie Long