Fresh Veg, No Bull
The Hungry Vegan is an occasional column, shedding light on herbivorous offerings at mainstream Exeter restaurants. If there are any places you would like the Hungry Vegan to try, email subeditor @ electric-stitch.com.
With my omnivorous family in town, I figured it was finally time to put Harry’s Grill Bar to the vegan test. As the restaurant prominently displays the image of a bull on their menu and website, my expectations were far from great. I was not surprised when our exceedingly perky waitress informed me that, although a tasty-sounding squash risotto was available for vegetarians, my options were limited to vegetable side dishes. Such is the typical case for a vegan in a steak house and one of many reasons that vegans do not generally frequent steak houses.
Harry’s began to win me over through its bread. Our bread basket contained two types of the stuff – one sweet and fruity, and the other seedy and savoury. Both of these were tender, fresh, and a cut above the average pre-dinner fare. Then the sides arrived. My vegan partner and I shared five sides between us, each one costing £3 on average. Among these were potatoes (prepared especially for us with a blend of herbs, as the potato dishes on the menu come slathered in dairy), maple-glazed mushrooms, and greens. Each was both fresh and flavoursome and we had more than enough food to go around. Of particular note were the mushrooms – sweet but subtle, their glaze made a lovely dip for the last of our breads.
As I finished off my meal with a black coffee (soy milk is not available), I contemplated my dining experience. My disappointment at the limited selection had quickly been eclipsed by my enjoyment of so many fresh and lovingly prepared veggies. Apparently, the meat was good too, but not good enough to stop my dad from stealing a large share of my mushrooms.
Vegan Verdict: Despite its unappetizing menu graphics (the bull looks to be sombrely reflecting on his species’ plight), Harry’s comes through for the ‘mixed’ families of Exeter.
Harry’s Grill Bar, 6 Northernhay Place, 01392 438545
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Stephanie Long